I find it a little difficult to control and i don’t think it looks all that good. To preserve it I used Johnson floor wax. Or do you have any other long term solution. Some of the planks in our floors are 24″ wide – old growth wood I believe. Any recommendations? What about using long oil spar varnish on a canvas oil painting instead of “artist oil varnish” as a finishing archival sealer? Not sure about Canadian availability, but here are two products I recommend: http://www.jamestowndistributo.....CPES+Epoxy, http://www.jamestowndistributo.....ar+Varnish. That is unless you plan to gut it and replace it. Good morning from Nashville, TN- we have a circa 1925 oak church pew that is in very good condition and finished for interior use – it has never been outside and has no rot. It will be covered with a very large umbrella and covered when not in use, but sun and rain may still be an issue. First of all, do you really need an expensive brush? The polyurethane would definitely be the best choice for the floor. Sad to say that can is likely no good and you’ll want to buy a new one. Afterwards i am planning to varnish these with a non yellowing, glossy clear varnish. Happened upon your article, we are about to start a huge project, refinishing original fir-wood floors in the 1924 house we just purchased. My mother -in-law lives up in Eureka California and part of her exterior of the house is Ceder wood. For example, varnish, more particularly spar varnish, is best for outdoor use while polyurethane is best to use on indoor furniture. What would you recommend? Thanks. I just read this comment that you made to another question. Oh Great Woodwhisperer… I too am so disappointed on the Spar Varnish. hmm… something I know nothing about. What is your suggestion on what I should use? What would you recommend to do. I believe after lots of looking it is made of Honduran rosewood feathers in the center and burl on the outside. Since he wouldn’t need to repaint it more often, he’d really be saving a lot of money in using this water- and UV-resistant paint for his marine vehicles. I used white chalk paint but need to seal the wood with something to keep stains away and make the wood harder as it dents to easy. Cabot which is an oil and Varathane (Rustoelum Product) which is water based. Hello – Its a good idea to completely remove the old finish either by stripping or sanding, and then reapply your stain and your new finish. Use the search feature on your browser and you’ll find a question someone asked about cedar blinds peeling. I assume that this cracking is because the poly was too hard of a finish for this particular pine floor in this particular location? Thanks, Geary, No sir. Hi Gail. Curious what finish you would recommend for a baseball bat that my be better than Spar varnish for something like a baseball bat? I suspect to get such a high gloss the manufacturer has to forgo any UV inhibitor - so no good for external or marine use, and it is soft - so no good for flooring. But how that affects long-term durability, re-coating, and appearance is not something I can really comment on. So yes, pretty much ANY varnish will yellow over time. if not, what colour is Spar varnish???? We need to varnish (preferably spray it on) but we are afraid of any shine on it. Spar marine varnish is a natural oil based product that is designed to protect wood. But its probably worth trying out, since if its meant for boats, it should probably work well on a stall. do you recommend using a marine varnish to weather proof and protect the hardwood plywood that the side walls are made from? Living in Utah we have huge changes in weather from 100 degrees summer days to snow all winter. The only concern with the varnish option is it tends to be a bit softer in the direct sun/heat. Lacquer is solvent-based. What do you think I should use? Can you tint the Spar Varnish or can you buy it with different tints? I am sorry that I did not make myself very clear. Richard. This indoor furniture will be hit with dappled sunlight, hot summers and very little rain. I’m trying to determine the best way to refinish an automotive shift knob. Thank you so much for your great site. I have a mahogany door that gets the hot afternoon sun. Thinning 50/50 for each coat? thanks. Even with that said, I’d like to finish it off correctly just in case we decide to move it to the deck permanently. I love the look of oil but want the benches to be useable and fear some ruined pants with using oil. What happens if SPAR VARNISH is applied over SHELLAC ? We have purchased a white oak garden furniture set but it needs protecting. Thanks for your help. The MAJOR difference between the two is that Spar Urethane stays on the surface of the wood and acts like a shell. Thanks. Much like the situation with oils, the better product is also the most expensive. Also a lovely soft finish. You have to let it dry completely between coats and fully cure for 7-9 days before using the surface so it is a hassle. http://i59.tinypic.com/jr3ead.jpg. Also, I heard pine sucks up a lot of varnish so do you recommend using a pre conditioner like the Cold CPES epoxy? I have several projects I’d like to keep outside. Hi Mark, I would like to make my own Danish oil but can’t find a supplier of non urethane solid varnish, do you know of any please? If you don’t go with a film, you’re looking at something that needs to be renewed routinely, which my not be the amount of work you want to do. I would like to put something stronger that would last longer than 2 years. The plan is to varnish it and perhaps add a deep oak stain. Hi there Marc. They tend to look yellow or orange on lighter colored woods. Copyright © 2006-2020 The Wood Whisperer Inc. This improves the longevity of the system keeping moisture out of the layers beneath the surface. Thanks in advance! I can’t find a definitive answer any where to which is the best. I desire hardness but also a little bit of UV protection. You said the door doesn’t have a finish on it yet. And the best method of putting varnish or other finish as an overcoat back on it that would not yellow? Water-based polyurethane is popular among DIYers due to its relatively easy and forgiving application process. Which spar varnish do you recommend and how many coats do I apply on the bad parts and not so bad ones? Well I don’t really do thick poured finishes so my experience in this area is very limited. We are considering using marine spar for durability and ease of maintenance. Spar varnish is usually manufactured using natural oils such as linseed, soya or tung. Many thanks!! To this end, a traditional spar varnish contains a high ratio of resins to solvents. As for the acronym, that would be an MSDS. Thanks, I am refinishing an old church pew for use as seating on our deck. Thanks Marc (I wrote earlier about what to use on a 20 (8 foot by 8 foot) bamboo fence sections. What should I use??? I’m a novice. Well, I’m not too familiar with finishing for that particular climate. So if you need UV protection, you might want to head to boat shop…. Spar marine varnish is intended for coating exterior wooden surfaces that are above the water line. While both spar marine varnish and spar urethane can offer water protection for your wooden canoe, boat or paddle, the one that is best for you will likely come down to budget and/or maintenance.With the high level of moisture protection that comes with spar urethane, this could be a good choice for coating paddles, canoes or other wooden vessels. I was going to sand it as best I could and re-apply a better product to save it from the same fate. It contains tung oil and polyurethanes, which combine to form long chain molecules, called polymers. You might look into using an exterior staining product. And having WoodWorks on there at least gave people an opportunity to see some quality woodworking programming. I made a lovely bellrope recently. I don’t want the epoxy to yellow so I am guessing this is the best way. Am I correct on this? Thank you so very much! Here is the kicker- we have three large dogs that we are certain will continuously punish the floors in our new home. Larry. Traditional varnish is oil-based and contains natural resins. I put several coats of spar varnish on a picnic table and it looked great. One thing about spar marine varnish is that you will likely need to reapply it regularly as it can often flake off or chip.The word ‘spar’ is relative to marine, in that it is used as a term for the mast or staff on a ship, so spar varnish should be ideal for marine use, as that is essentially what it is designed for. For vessels that are outdoors for most of the time, this can definitely be beneficial, as it can help to prevent paint from fading and wood from weakening. Get the entire thing down to bare wood for the best consistency. Do you think this would work? I like a shiny door & prep work was killer so I don’t want to do this door again. I hope to mix it with mineral spirits and make my own wiping varnish for outdoor applications. Can i just apply a very thin coat of Marine Spar varnish over the door without lightly sanding down the old varnish? Marine varnish is also known as spar varnish. For now, I’d say use the stuff that gives the look you want. With the extreme heat and humidity in Louisiana it requires washing with clorox at least once yearly to remove the black streaks (mildew) and sometimes pressure washing to give it a “fresh” look. You really have to go with water-based formulas. I honestly don’t use the stuff myself so can’t recommend anything too specific. This post gets a lot of random questions and it’s difficult to keep up. I am pretty sure that the wood they used for the threshold is red oak, and I am hearing that it is not good for exterior use. Exterior finishes generally go by the name “spar,” as in “spar varnish.” Sometimes, a distinction for UV resistance can be made between common spar finishes (without UV inhibitors) and “marine” or “boat” finishes (with UV inhibitors). Now comes the important question… Would spar varnish be a good option for finishing my bamboo bike? Do I lightly sand between coats? But keep in mind that water-based finishes are not the most durable for outdoor use. I would like to put spar varnish on it but I cannot do a lot of sanding on the veneer. Thanks! Can I put a varnish over this even though a urethane was on it before? Spar varnish gets its name from the wooden poles that support the sails on a marine vessel. That’s that I’d use. Thank you! Thanks! So I am wondering what products you would recommend to weather-seal the set in a satin/matte/eggshell finish that I desire (don’t want gloss) that will keep the original natural color. I know the spar varnish will change the look of the clear epoxy but this is something the customer will have to deal with. 2) I am realizing I probably am not the type of person to keep up with the maintenance I’m reading that is required with teak furniture. The marine varnish I recommend is the one I mentioned in this article. Here’s an article that might help you further. Marine varnishes, which are far more expensive, do contain considerable amounts of UV inhibitors. The Spar Marine or the Spar Urethane. It has a very high gloss - what one would expect from a traditional boat. I am planning a post fence of 5″ diam. I see references in comments here and elsewhere to a ‘good thinner.’ Can you point me in a good direction for a good thinner you would use to thin Epifanes? This is one of those times when local advise might steer you in the best direction. Do you know what type of paint sticks best to spar varnish? I have a similar problem with a cedar picnic table, although I had coated it with polyurethane. What should I use to seal all six sides of the plywood before screwing it down to the aluminum floor joists? That’s going to be a bit tricky to do. Either way, you can always add a more protective finish later if need be. Hi Jeanie. I have also read about another spar varnish called Penofin…any advice will be much appreciated! And this makes it easier to see beyond the marketing jargon to deduce how a particular finish will behave. So you’ll have to move around a bit and selective sand certain areas to keep things even. I would like to seal it with something that will not alter the color if possible. I’m not comfortable making that declaration myself when it comes to children. That’s correct Germain. Varnish. You can play it safe and use de-waxed shellac under the marine varnish. Would the Epifanes CV1000 do the trick for me or is there another product that would be better suited to wood siding that I have already stained? knotty hickory is what I am using. . I am in the process of building a folding table that will be subjected to moisture with great frequency. This site uses affiliate links. It can be important to varnish your canoe or vessel in an area that’s free of dust, wind or hot sunlight, so that it can stay clean and dry evenly. May I ask what you would recommend and why? Even the epoxy might deteriorate over time but it should last quite a while. Bridget. Are there marine products available in Canada that I could use that would not be too shiny? Hi, I have 22 exterior doors that bake in the Arizona sun. ;-). The urethane will dry harder under those conditions. Polymers are more flexible than regular polyurethanes, so they resist cracking during temperature fluctuations (day to night, etc.). I also realize that I mistook “floor” and “door”, lol. Thanks, I used a recommended varathane I think it was called and after a year the plants my wife put on the sill have left a bit of a mark. Original_Spar-varnish-on-wood-close-up_4x3 Lacquer Only use oxalic acid if you have discoloration to deal with. We have refinished our old wood floors several times with different products. The surface will dry out from time to time and you can just easily apply more mineral oil. We just purchased a home that has age and distressed pine flooring that is 3 and 1/8″ wide. Shudder…. Not sure if the Epifanes Clear Varnish is only for non-painted wood. From what I read, some folks recommend a long wait before painting and others say you can simply wash the board with soap, water and a scrub brush, let it dry for a few weeks, then proceed with the painting. Required fields are marked *. After all, a higher quality oil should equate to a higher quality varnish, and thus a higher price tag. Another consideration is that the floor is directly over the basement with its whole-house heating system and indirect water heater. (The table color looks dead, while the leaves are alive.) You will probably find that you will need around two or three coats in order to get the best protection. A pre-coat of CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) followed by as many coats as you want of Epifanes. I would like for them to really hold up well outside in Ohio. Until recently the DVR would pick up usually 4-5 episodes of both New Yankee Workshop and Woodworks, granted they were the same episodes over and over a lot of the time, but now there’s one ep of NYW a week, no Woodworks at all. PS: photos can be seen here: Any easy way to confirm if it it red oak or white? Within less than a year outside the picnic table turned black and now the varnish is flaking and peeling. indefinitely. Restoring an old house and one of the bathrooms is on the old back porch even to include the old back porch light receptacle. Advice on that process using the unfinished 1 x 4’s or is there a way to paint the pressure treated shutters sooner than a year? And so their resistance to UV is not much better than regular varnish. I’m about to refinish a late 18th century mahogany table with single board sections; it is very dense and heavy mahogany. One of the best outdoor finishes out there is Epifanes. Less than 8 months later, in a hard winter, our fence has greyed, and looks as if there is no varnish on it whatsoever. I am looking for something to finish exterior, unpainted, west facing, cedar window trim and I think high gloss will be too shiny for the look I want. Spar urethane is similar to spar marine varnish in that it acts as a protective barrier against water damage and moisture. Well, major bummer. I know many folks who use varnish on their musical instruments, so it should do quite well. If you really need non-yellowing, you might look into some water-based or outdoor deck specific products (which I am not too familiar with). Sorry for not replying. But if you do decide to try this, looking into marine varnishes as they are going to be higher quality than the spar varnish you can get at Home Depot.

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